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Sunday, 8 February 2009

Lampung

Ancient Chinese travel chronicles refer to a place in the most southerly part of Sumatra called "Lampung" or "place of the Southerly winds". Megalithic sculptures discovered in Kebontebu, Kenali, Pugung and Batubedil also help to date the province to Indonesia's greatest maritime empire, Sriwajaya. Strategically located looking towards krakatau and Java across the Sunda Strait, Lampung has along history of trade is still an important gateway into Sumatra, particularly from Jakarta.

The Province is generally flat with the highest mountains of Gunung Pesagi, Tanggamas,

Seminiung, Sekincau and Raya all are being doormat volcanoes. Pundar Lampung, the Provincial capital, was formerly two separate towns, Tanjungkarang and the port of Telukbetung, which after the infamous eruptions of Krakatau were both completely covered in volcanic ash. In the course of development, however, these towns have merged together to become one single city. Being blessed with incredibly fertile soil, agriculture has naturally become the main industry of the province. Clove, coffee and coconut plantations are abundant along the southern coast while pepper, coffee, cassava, cocoa and rice are preferred in the eastern sections of the region. The area around Lake Ranu is primarily a tobacco growing area.

The Way Kambas Nature Reserve in the west of the province is a perfect place to see Sumatran elephants being trained to work in thick tropical jungles as well as hundreds of species of exotic birds. Tigers still roam this land although they are rare. The largest flower in the world, Rafflesia, can be seen at the Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park.


Other places of interest:


Bandar Lampung

The capital of Lampung has a several interesting places such as the Monument of the Krakatau Eruption, as well as Tapis textile art and dance performances.


Krakatau

An uninhabited island, Krakatau is located on the southern part of the Bay of Lampung. Krakatau is reachable in three hours by boat from Canti, a fishing village near Kalianda, South Lampung. Anak Krakatau (Child of Krakatau) is still growing, first emerging from the sea in early 1928, 45 years after the legendary eruption in 1883.


Pugung Archeological Site

Located in Pugung Raharjo village, 40 kms northeast of Bandar Lampung is a site of megalith and pre-historic relics, as well as those of the classical Hindu-Buddhist period.


Merak Belatung Beach

Located 40 kms south of Banar Lampung, on the way to the seaport of Bekauheni, the beach is ideal for swimming and wind surfing. Cottages are available.

source www.travel-indonesia.com

Riau- The Islands

The 3,000 Islands of the Rim province straddle the Straits of Malacca, one of the oldest and busiest trading routes in the world. For centuries the islands have provided a safe haven to traders and sailors from Europe, India and China, retaining today the flavor of an ancient 'crossroads of the world'. The romantic history of this region is rich with tales of piracy and inter-national conflict. Riau, which includes a large part of East Sumatra, is homeland to the Malays and the source of Indonesia's Malay-based natio-nal language. The first book of Malay grammar, called Bustanul Katibin, was written and published here in 1857.

Since its founding in 1402 by Parameswara, the Kingdom of Malacca played a leading role in the history of the area. With the arrival of the Portu-guese a period of wars for control of the Straits began. The situation was aggravated by the arrival of the Dutch and British in the early 17th century.

A turbulent conflict followed, which was partially resolved by the Treaty of London in 1824, giving the Dutch control of all European territories south of Singapore. This area Included Riau, and effectively severed its links with Johor and the mainland. The Dutch subjugated and dissolved the rebellious Riau Sultanate in 1911, but the province's Influence remained strong.

Pekanbaru in Sumatra became the provincial capi-tal in 1959, taking over from the former capital of Tanjungpinang on the Island of Bintan. Tanjung-pinang is, however, still the most Important town in the province. Its proximity to Singapore has made it a main business and shopping port and together with the nearby island of Batani, it is promising to become an area of major investment and development in the years ahead. The future looks bright for Riau; because of its strategic position with the rest of Asia it is rapidly being developed as a major economic zone.


Other places of interest:


Pekanbaru

About 160 kms upstream on the Siak river, Pekanbaru, Riau's provincial capital, has a number of buildings in the traditional style of the area, among them the Balai Dang Merdu, the Balai Adat and Taman Budaya Riau, or Cultural Park.


The Siak Sultanate's Park

This Moorish style palace of the Sultan of Siak, 120 kms upstream from Pekanbaru on the siak river, was built in 1889 by Sultan Syarif Hasyim Abdul Jalil Syarifuddin. Now a museum, the palace contains the sultanate's royal paraphernalia and other items of historical interest. Established during the 16th century, the Siak Seri Inderapura sultanate lasted until 1946, when it became a victim of the popular upheavals following the Japanese surrender at the close of World War II.


Candi Muara Takus

Like many other structures of its kind in Sumatra, this Buddhist stupa near the village of Muara Takus in the Tigabelas Koto district was built with red bricks and sand. The temple is believed to have been built at around the 9th or 10th century AD when the power of the South Sumatra-based Sriwijaya empire was at its peak. Excavations are still being made to deter-mine the precise age and function of the stupa.


Tanjung Pinang

A busy little town on Bintan Island, visited by traders from Jakarta, Medan, Palembang and other big cities in Indonesia, Tanjung Pinang is only a two-hour boat ride from Singapore. A large section of the old part of the town was built in traditional local fashion, on stilts, over the water. Bintan is a good point of departure to other islands in the area.


Penyangat Island

This island, six kilometers from Tanjung Pinang, can be reached in 15 minutes by boat. The seat of the powerful Bugis viceroys of Riau during 18th century, Penyangat still bears the traces of its illustrations past. Ruins, abandoned for almost 70 years, were recently restored. The old ruler's palace and royal tombs are among the legacies left by the Riau sultanate. Still in use is the old vice royal mosque, the Mesjid Raya. There is also a newly built cultural center for stage performances of Malay music and dance.


Kerumutan Nature Reserve

Located on mainland Riau in the Kuala Kampar district, this 120,000 hectares (30.000 acres) nature reserve can be reached in 18 hours by motor boat from Pekanbaru. Journey by boat up a peaceful river into the heart of virgin forests for a unforgettable experience of Indonesia's wilderness.


Batam Island

Batam is one of the 3,000 islands, which make up the Riau Archipelago and is closest to Singapore, which is only 20 kms away or twenty minutes by air-conditioned ferry. It has a rapid-growing population of around 100.000. As the island develops into a major industrial and tourist area, it attracts an ever increasing population from other Indonesian islands who see Batam as a haven of opportunity. Once almost uninhabited, save for a few scattered fishing communities, Batam's history took a sharp turn beginning 1969, when it became support base for the State-owned Pertamina oil company and its offshore oil exploration. In 1971 a presidential decree designated it as an industrial area and in 1975 the Batam Authority was formed. In 1978 Batam was established as a bonded area.


Beaches

Riau's thousands of islands have innumerable scenic beaches and diving spots, among them Trikora on Bintan and Pasir Panjang on Rupat Island, which also has excellent surfing. Great beaches are also found on the Islands Terkulai and Soreh, about an hour's boat ride from Tanjung Pinang. Check with local travel agents for other alternatives.

source www.travel-indonesia.com

Aceh-the province

Aceh, at the northwestern end of Sumatra, was the first area in Indonesia to have significant contact with the outside world.

Chinese chronicles of the sixth century speak of a kingdom called Po-Li on the northern tip of what is now Sumatra. 9th century Arabic and Indian writings mention Aceh as an important trade center. The first Islamic kingdom in Indonesia was established in 804 in Aceh, and the region's position as an Islamic stronghold grew as the city became a center for Islamic learning and the gateway for Indonesians making the pilgrimage to Mecca.

Over the centuries, a constant influx of traders nail immigrants established Aceh as a wealthy and influential trading nation, possessing a strong sense of independence. Aceh's decline began with the death of Sultan Iskandar Thani in 1641, when the British and the Dutch began with the death to battle for control of the region. - The London Treaty of 1824 gave the Dutch control of all British possessions in Sumatra, in return for their withdrawal from India and Singapore.

The Acehnese are famous throughout Indonesia for their courage and fierce sense of independence, and the Dutch lost over 10.000 men during the Aceh Wars, which lasted from 1872 to 1942

Although industrialization and global communication have created a greater openness to western ideas and practices, visitors should keep in mind that the Acehnese take their religion, their manners and their morals very seriously.


Other places of interest:


Baiturrahman Grand Mosque

Sitting in a vast expanse of green fields, the white-washed walls and minarets, and charcoal blacks domes of the Grand Mosque are the most famous landmark in Aceh. You can climb the stairs iii one of the minarets for a fantastic view of the city.


Museum Negeri

The museum has 3 floors filled with antique weapons, gold jewelry, serene onion costumes and household finishing. The 'Runiah Aceh' is an excellent example of traditional architecture, built completely without nails, being held together by cord and pegs. Among the exhibits is a huge cast-iron bell, a gift from die Emperor of China and brought to Aceh by the famed Admiral Cheng Ho in 1414.


Gunongan

Sultan Iskandar Muda (1607-36) as a private playground and bathing place for his wife erected Gunungan. This whimsical architectural fantasy had access to the sultan's palace through the traditional 'Pintu Aceh', used by royalty only.


Kerkhof

The cemetery here holds the remains of over 2,000 Dutch, Eurasian, Javanese and Ambonese soldiers who died fighting in the Aceh Wars.


The Syiah Kuala Grave

Teungku Syiah Kuala was one of Aceh's great Moslem mamas, and his grave is a shrine for local visitors and Muslims from Indonesia and Malaysia. It stands near the mouth of Krueng Aceh River, about 2-kilometer from the city.


Beaches

Lhok Nga is a great beach for picnicking. Ujung Bate is a black sand beach nice for walking and collecting seashells. For swimming the best is the exquisite white sand beach at Lampu'uk. Remember to dress appropriately, local women swim fully clothed.

Other Places of Interest



Sea Gardens

Pulau We, (We Island), is a dramatic island of dense jungle, high hilltop views, palm-lined beaches and mysterious rocky coves. There is also a fresh water lake and semi-active volcano on the island. Nearby Pulau Rubiah is famous for its excellent coral reef and spectacular array of tropical fish. It is a great place for both snorkel-ing and diving.


Gunung Leuser National Park

This is one of the largest national parks in the world, containing over 800,000 hectares of virgin rainforest. The park is home to orang-utan, gib-bons, monkeys, elephants, tigers, and among the last of the Sumatran rhinoceri. There are research facilities for the study of primates, birds and insects, the Oran-utan Rehabilitation Center at Bukit Lawang being the most popular with tourists. It is possible to raft the Sungai Alas River from Ketambe to the Indian Ocean on a 4-5 day expedition. Your journey takes you through exciting white-water rapids to the calmer, crocodile-infested waters of the lowlands. Basic accommodation is available at Ketambe.


Laut Tawar Lake

Laut Tawar Lake is located in Aceh Tengah. Takengon, the capital of the region, lies on the West Side of the lake, 1,120 meters above sea level. With an average temperature of 20 degree C. the scen-ery is lovely and the area is being developed as a tourist resort with water recreation such as ski-ing and boating being readily available. There is excellent hiking in forests filled with exotic or-chids and trekking to the Telong and Tetek volca-noes for the more energetic.

source www.travel-indonesia.com

West Sumatra

West Sumatra is composed of three regions: volcanic highlands, a long coastal plane and a series of jungle-covered islands just offshore. Much of the province is still wilderness; virgin jungle inhabited by elephants, tigers, leopards and rhinos. It is the traditional homeland of the Minangkabau, who are known far and wide through the archipelago for their shrewd business sense, their firey-hot dishes and ancient matriarchal customs. The women own property and the men leave home to seek their fame and fortune. Travelling is considered a mark of success and West Sumatrans and their Minang or Padang restaurants are found in all major towns across the nation. The people are hospitable and eloquent, with a poetic style of speech. West Sumatran days are filled with colorful ceremonies and festivals. Legend has it the Minangkabau are descendants of the youngest son of Alexander the Great, King Maharjo Dirajo.

West Sumatra’s center of culture and tourism is Bukittinggi, nestled in the highlands north of the provincial capital of Padang. Surrounded by high mountains, picturesque valleys and lakes, Bukittinggi considered by many tourists to be the most hospitable sity in all of Sumatra.

Padang’s Tabing Airport is the main gateway to west Sumatra and is serviced by Merpati Nusantara airline. The MV Kerinci sails every two weeks for Jakarta from Teluk Bayur harbour. Smaller vessels from Muara harbour sail to small towns along the entire West coast of Sumatra. Regular bus services run between Padang, Bukittinggi and other major cities of Sumatra, as well as via the Trans-Sumatra Highway to Jakarta.





Other places of interest:

Padang

The capital of West Sumatra, Padang is the largest port on the West Coast of Sumatra, it's bustling harbour a crossroads for rubber, cinnamon, coffee, tea and nutmeg. The excellent Provincial Museum is built in the traditional Minang style and houses prehistoric artifacts, ceramics, manuscripts and modern art. In Kampung Cina (Chinatown) you can wander streets lined with turn-of-the-century houses, Chinese herbalists and coffee shop. Good hiking and wonderful views of the city can be had a Bukit Monyet and Gunung Padang.


Bukittinggi

The heart of the highlands, Bukittinggi is a pleasant two-hour drive from Padang through the gorgeous Anai Valley up to the Again Plateau. Located 930 metres above sea level, Bukittinggi, (formerly called Fort De Cock by the Dutch), has a cool climate and is surrounded by three volcanoes: Tandikat, Singgalang and Merapi. The central landmark is the town’s clocktower, referred to by the local people as Jam Gadang. It overlooks the Market Square, a beehive of activity and fantastic place to do some souvenir shopping. Also worth visiting is the Rumah Gadang Museum, a traditional extended family house built in the 19th century There are dance performances on the museum’s open stage every Sunday and on public holidays. The famous bullfights at Padang Lawas (6 km south of Bukittinggi) are every Tuesday at 05.00. P.m., where tin antics of local owners and bettors are as much fun as the fights themselves! Nearby Kota Gadang it renowned for its fine silver filigree and hand embroidery.


Pandai Sikat

The village of Pandai Sikat is 10 km from Bukittinggi and famous for its hand - weaving and carving industry the village has thousands of looms and turning out richly colored cloth. Carved wooden ornaments and furniture are also made here.


Ngarai Sianok (Sianok Canyon)

The 150 meter deep canyon lies on the outskirts of Bukittinggi. It is an incredibly picturesque area, lush green with a river winding through the bottom of the steep-walled canyon. West Sumatrans claim it is unrivalled for natural beauty in all of Indonesia, and locals frequently take visitors and friends on outings here.


Batusangkar

50 km southeast of Bukittinggi, this is the largest town in the Tanahdatar area, and a center of the ancient Minangkabau culture. Fascinating historical sites abound, among them Pagaruvung, home to ancient inscribed stones at Batu Basurat, literally meaning ‘Inscribed Stone'.


Pariangan

Legend has it that this is the cradle of the Minang kabau culture, the first village of the Minang ancestors who descended from Mt. Merapi. It is village of traditional houses, some said to be over 300 years old. The surau, or men’s house, is one of the last of its kind still in use. Make sure to visit the open council grounds with ancient stone seats, the mosque and hot spring.


Lake Maninjau

A winding road with 44 sharp turns descends Lake Maninjau, one of West Sumatra's most famous sights. A Crater Lake, its scenery rivals Lake Toba, on a smaller scale. There are facilities for swimming and water skiing, and a good selection of hotels and restaurants. The village of Matur, overlooking the lake, arranges dance performances on request.


Lake Singkarak

36 km from Bukittinggi is another ideal place for recreation and water sports at Singkarak Lake, the longest in West Sumatra. There are several hotels and restaurants in the area. A nice sidetrip from the lake is up to that villages of Sulitair, where there is a huge 64-meter communal house now occupied by four families.


Taman Hutan Raya Bung Hatta

The 70, 000-hectare botanical garden lies at 1,000 m above sea level, on the way to Solok. Monkeys and other indigenous are protected by the Park Warden, as are the innumerable varieties of exotic flora. The Cool Mountain air and panoramic views make this area a popular resort for both the young and old.


Kerinci-Seblat National Park

Sumatra's largest national parks the Kerinci sprawls across four provinces. It is home to rhinos, tigers, elephants, bears and orang-utan. The scenery is magnificent, dominated by volcanic cones, including the highest peak in western Indonesia, Mt. Kerinci. Lake Kerinci is the best place to sight the park's famous bird life: hornbills, banded-broadbills and drongos, whose tails give the illusion that the birds is constantly being chased by two black butterflies.


Harau Valley

Steep granite walls shelter this fertile valley. The Harau Valley is a nature and wildlife reserve, where tapir, siamangs, boars, wild goats and tigers still roam.


Ngalau Indah Caves

On the road from Bukittinggi to Payakhumbuh, these caves extend deep into the mountainside. Th domain of thousands of bats, the main entrance has the outline of an elephant visible on its face. The path through these caves leads out to the top of the mountain and panoramic views.


Rimba Panti Nature Reserve

Rimba Panti Nature Reserve, 103 km from Bukittinggi, is a refuge for the Rafflesia Arnoldi, the largest flower in existence, blooming only once a year. A guide can be obtained from the office at the reserve. The provincial office of the Directorate of Nature Conversation (BKSAA) at Padang can give you complete information.


Mentawai Islands

Four islands make up the Mental cluster off the West Sumatra coast: Siberut, Sipora, Pagai Utara and Pagai Selatan. The people of these islands still live in comparative isolation, maintaining their age-old ways. Siberut is becoming increasingly popular as an area for trekking and visiting these ancient cultures. It is well known for its virgin rainforest, inhabited by a number of animal species not found anywhere else In the world, among them some rare monkey species. Beautiful coral reefs are found offshore.

source www.travel-indonesia.com

Borobudur

In the Kedu region, about 30 kilometres north of Yogya is a triad of temples: Borobudur Pawon and Mendut. They are connected with one another by well-kept roads.

Borobudur is the largest and most magnificient of the three. It lies on the confluence of the rivers Progo and Elo. Such a site is considered holy in accordance with the situation in India, where the confluence of the Ganges and the Yamuna is also a holy place.

Borobudur is surrounded by hills and mountains: in the south by the Menoreh chain of hills, where Prince Diponegoro fought against the Dutch (1825 1830), in the west by Mt. Sumbing, Mt.Prahu and Mt.Sindoro, in the north is the Ungaran - Andong - Telomoyo range of hills and in the east the active Merapi (api = fire) and Merbabu (abu = ash).

Before its restoration Borobudur was covered with earth and forests to such an extent that only a small part of it was visible. And yet, in spite of this, it was not unknown. In a Javanese historical work is recorded how about in the middle of the 19th century a Yogya prince went to Borobudur to see "the thousand statues", standing on a natural hill and also "a holy man in a cage".

Borobudur is a creation of the Hindu Javanese art, that's to say a product of the mixed Indian and Indonesian culture as it has developed since the beginning of the Christian era in this part of the Indonesian archipelago. The monument is probably erected in the 8th century as a central sanctuary of the Buddhist religion.

The shape is immediately connected with its religious meaning: it is not a temple, which can be entered, but a massive monument, a so-called stupa. Such an edifice was originally put on a relic of the Buddha or on the spot, where an important event had taken place in his life. In the long run the stupa itself became a sacred monument, symbolizing the Buddhist doctrine and spreading its beneficial influence far and wide around. And at the same time it had also to give the image of the cosmos according to the Buddhist conception.

In order to obtain the required shape the designer of Borobudur, who according to tradition had the name of Gunadharma, has wrapped as it were a natural hill with a mantle of stone. The sides of that hill were flattened in the form of terraces for the purpose and in this way, each time at a higher level, running round the monument, came first five square galleries and above them three round terraces. On the walls of the galleries rise temple shaped niches, on the terraces are little clock-shaped edifices, in the walls of which diamond and square holes have been left. In the centre of the top terrace, on the central but also on the highest point of the sanctuary, has been erected a large clock-shaped stupa, the walls of which are completely closed.

Usually old monuments on the form of a chandi are given the name of the village or the Javanese Period" of the Hindu - Javanese history, i.e. 732 - 928 A.D.

Thirdly: the Borobudur monument is a reflection of what is called the Vajrayana sect of the Tantric School. This sect emerged during the 7th century and found acceptance in Indonesia about 700 A.D.

All these indications have given a key to trace back the date of Borobudur, and it can be fixed at about 850 A.D. This monument was built by Indonesians themselves under the influence of the Hindu - Javanese cultures. The mixture of cultures commenced with the migration of Hindus into Indonesian territory. From several linguistic peculiarities the conclusions may be drawn that it was the two highest castes, the Brahmins and the Ksatryas, that introduced the Hindu culture into Indonesia.

The ruling dynasty during the above-mentioned Central Javanese period were the monarchs bearing the title of Rakai or the Rakarayan. These Rakais wielded their sceptre and feudal landlords in Central Java until a Prince, not belonging to the Rakai, overthrew their power and established a new dynasty, and adopted the title of Sang Ratu. History has it that Sang Ratu conducted a successful expedition beyond his borders and even into Indo-China (Viet Nan).

The term Rakarayan comprises the honorific Ra and Karayan, the latter being a substantial form of Raja (which means high or foremost), Rakai originates from the words Ra and Kaya, substantive of Aya (high or honourable). Thus the two mentioned titles stand for His or Her Highness. It is to be compared with the still existing title of nobility in South Sulawesi "Karaeng" who believe themselves to be descendants of the To Manurung (He who descends from Kahyangan - Heaven).

The Buddhist prasastis record that the kings who ruled in Central Java were called Çailendras (king from the Mountains: Caila - Mountain; Indra - King).

A prasasti found in 732 A. D. records that King Sanjaya himself professed the Civaitic religion; he confirmed the founding of his kingdom by erecting a lingga a symbolic image of a phallus. In the stone inscription he was referred to as Mount Meru, the legendary origin of kings (Chandi Canggal, sub-district of Ngluwar district of Muntilan, regency of Magelang).

Sang Ratu Sanjaya's successor Sri Maharaja of the Cailendra dynasty, had brought Buddhism to prosperity in Central Java. No wonder that. Rakai Panangkaran, the first Buddhist king was referred to as "an ornament of the Sailendra dynasty" in the Buddhist prasasti.

It might be that an alliance by marriage with a scion of the Sri Wijaya dynasty in Sputh Sumatra resulted in a change in the Sailendra Hose. In the years afterwards, since the Sri Wijaya dynasty had reggined power in Central Java, the kings of this House considered themselves as descendants of Sailendra.

The rapid progress of Buddhism in Java coincided with the flourish of this religion in Nalanda (near Tajgir city of today) under the protection of the Pala kings from Bengal.

A prasasti found in Kelurak, near Prambanan, dating from 782 A.D., probabbly decreed by Rakay Panangkaran, makes mention of a Teacher from Bengal whom the king held in high esteem.

International relations carried out by experienced missions had brought upon changes within the dynasty in Central Java. Sri Maharaja Rakai Panangkaran's successors also professed the Buddhist religion, but in the second half of the 9th century there was a sudden rise of Sivaism (+856 A.D.) as is recorded in prasastis and monuments of that period.

Scholars call this a "Restoration" of Civaisrn. This phenomenon is called "syncretism" (a mixture of two religions as it is to be found in Java and Bali.

Spectacular monuments such as Borobudur, Sewu and Loro Jonggrang of the Prambanan temple complex cannot possibly be accomplished by one king alone.

Borobudur was the symbol of power and glory of the then ruling monarch. According to the Hindu culture, the proportions of a temple denoted the degree of power of the king. Borobudur also reflected the ardour of the newly converted proselytes. This monument was meant not only as a propaganda medium of Buddhism, but it also exercised a beneficial influence upon Mankind. To the king Borobudur constituted the fulfilling of his highest plight towards the Creator, or a dharma in order to-receive a reward in the hereafter. The larger the temple the greater the reward would be! Seen in this light, Borobudur was not only built for the benefit of the Buddhist religion, but also for the worship of the ancestral spirits.

The founder of the Buddhist religion was Prince Siddharta of Kapilavastu (in Nepak Tarai), a scion of the Saka clan, born about 560 B.C. As an ascete he was called Sakyamuni or Gautama, and after having received the Bodhi (Supreme Wisdom) he was given the name of Buddha (One who has achieved the Bodhi).

The marrow of His Teaching is in short that life in this profane world with its weal and woe is nothing but suffering, and this suffering will always" be repeated as long as a human being is reborn on this earth (re-incarnation). The suffering will only come to an end, if man has achieved Nirvana (Paradise).

Buddha's Teachings show the Way how to deserve Nirvana by keeping aloof the worldly pleasures of life, by leading an ascetic life, by walking on the Eightfold Path: 1. correct view, 2. correct thought and purpose, 3. correct speech, 4. correct conduct, 5. correct livelihood or occupation, 6. correct zeal, 7. correct remembrance and 8. correct meditation.

In the very first place Buddhism points out the way to free oneself from the chain of sufferings (the re-incarnation).

After Prince Siddharta had attained the Bodhi in Both Gaya City, and after having preached the Buddha doctrine in the Deer park of Benares, many hermits became his disciples. Not only hermits, but also laymen who felt attracted to his teachings became his faithful followers, and strictly obeyed his rules in the conviction that they would be rewarded in the hereafter.

Mainly with the help and stimuli of the kings, Buddhism quickly gained influence and it soon became widespread all over Asia, including Indonesia. However, after Buddha Gautama's death a controversy arose among his followers, not only about the monarchial discipline, but also concerning metaphysical problems, e.g. how Nirvana looked like, and what was Buddha etc. etc., even to such an extent that the unintricate teachings of Buddha Gautama split up into two sects, the Mahayana and the Hinayana (the Great Vehicle and the Small Vehicle).

Based on the fact that the relief panels, carved against the balustrades and the main walls of the Borobudur sanctuary, representing miraculous occurrences, we may conclude, that Borobudur is the reflection of the sect of Tantrism, which exists by schims between the Mahayana and the Hinayana sects. After its magic spells the sect of Tantrism is called Mantrayana.

Chandi Borobudur is quite different from all other chandis in Indonesia. It has often been suggested that it is a stupa and not a chandi at all. A stupa was originally intended as a shrine for relics of the Lord Buddha. Later, it is quite possible that the corporeal remains of distinguished Buddhist saints were enshrined in such stupas. Sometimes a stupa was erected merely as a symbol of the Buddhist creed.

A chandi was mainly intended to house a deity, but relics were essential for its functioning. Certain parts of the chandi were set aside for relic boxes. The relics, however, were not corporal remains, but metals, precious stones and seeds, really meant as mementos of the god, symbolically representing the divine power.

No such relics have yet been found in Chandi Borobudur, relics of holy persons or mementos of a divinity. It is unlikely that bodily remains were ever enshrined in the monument. For such purposes, other kinds of stupas would be erected and, indeed small stupas were excavated at the beginning of the present century at the north- eastern foot of the hill. The scanty contents cannot be identified with certainty as bodily remains, but similar stupas in the courtyard of Chandi Kalasan proved to contain ashes of the dead and the remains of articles used by monks.

The vertical division of Chandi Borobudur into base, body and super-structure, making the big stupa merely the top of the monument, perfectly accords with the idea of the chandi as representing the cosmic mountain. The three super-imposed part represent the three spheres of the Universe, viz. the bhurloka or the Sphere of the Mortals, the bhuvarloka or the Sphere of the Purified, and the svarloka or the Sphere of the Gods.

According to Dr. Stutterheim the division of the temple into three parts is closely connected with the Buddhist faith which divides life into three phases:

1. Kamadhatu: a stage in which man is still closely tied to wordly wealth. This is in accordance with the structural base of Chandi Borobudur. It is the Sphere of the Desires.

2. Rupadhatu: a stage where man has been able to free himself from passion but is still tied to form. While it is said that Kamadhatu is a heaven in the world of passions, Rupadhatu on the other hand is a heaven of a higher "degree" (world of lustre). It is the Sphere of Forms.

3. Arupadhatu: Man has reached perfection and is no longer tied to worldly wealth. Here Man is illustrated by the circular terraces. It is the Sphere of Formlessness.

Everybody who devotes his attention to Chandi Borobudur is struck by the highly important place which the Buddha statues occupy at that monument. This was one of the reasons why it was supposed that the name Borobudur might have been a corruption of the word "Parabuddha", the many Buddhas. But this supposition is linguistically unjust, anyhow it is an indication that the Buddha statues were seen to be the main element of this structure.

Each Buddha statue sits on a lotus seat. The lotus flower is the symbol of purity. Each cardinal point is ruled by a Dhyani Buddha.

1. The east cardinal point is ruled by the Dhayani Buddha Aksobhya with the handpose Bhumisparsa mudra, which means the symbol of calling the earth to witness. The open left hand rests on the lap, the right hand is placed on the right knee with the fingers pointing downwards.).

It is deprived from the great moment at which Sakyamuni, shortly before attaining the Buddhahood called up the earth by touching it as a witness of the numerous deed he had done in former incarnations for the salvation of the creatures and to make himself suitable for the task that would await him. There are 92 Aksobhyas in the East (the rupadhatu).

2. The south cardinal point is ruled by the Dhyani Buddha Ratnasambhva (handpose: Vara mudra), which means the symbol of charity, of granting favours. It resembles the Bhumisparsa mudra, but the palm of the right hand is turned upwards, while the fingers rest in the right knee. There are 92 Ratnasambhvas in the south (26 at the first, 26 at he second, 22 at the third, and 22 at the fourth balustrade).

3. The west cardinal point is ruled by Dhyani Buddha Amithaba (handpose: dhyana mudra), which means the symbol of meditation. Both hands are opened and placed on the lap, the right hand above the left hand, the thumbs touching.

4. The north cardinal point is ruled by Dhyani Buddha Amoghasiddhi (handpose: abhaya mudra), which means the symbol of dispelling fear. Naturally it is not meant here that the Buddha himself is afraid, but he preaches that nobody needs to have fear.

These are the Buddhas of the lower rows of niches, whose mudras have been discussed alternatingly according to the cardinal points.

5. In the fifth or upper row of niches, turned to all sides, 64 in total, the Buddhas show a mudra, which means the symbol of argumentation or reasoning. This is the Dhyani Buddha Vairochana, ruling the Zenith.

6. The Buddhas of the three round terraces all the same. There are 72 in total, placed in clocks (the small stupas). These are the Dhyani Buddhas in heaven and are called Vairochanas too (Handpose: Dharma Chakra mudra), which is the symbol of turning the Wheel of the Law of Cause and Effect. Both hands are held before the breast, the left hand below the right. The left hand is turned upwards with the ring finger touching the thumb, while the finger of the right hand touches the little fingers of the left.

The particular position of Chandi Borobudur among Indonesian monuments derives not only from the exceptional architecture, but also from the striking abundance of elaborately carved bas-reliefs which cover the facades of the walls and the balustrades - a total surface of 2,500 square metres.

The reliefs can be divided into two types: narrative and decorative. The 1,460 narrative panels are arranged in eleven rows that go all around the monument for a total length of over 3,000 m. The 1,212 decorative panels, although arranged in rows, are treated as individual reliefs.

The first series of 160 narrative panels are on the hidden foot and consequently not visible. Fortunately, a complete set of photographs was made not long after they were rediscovered, and they can be identified as depicting the operation of the law of karma according to the Mahakarmavibhangga text.

The other ten series of narrative reliefs are distributed throughout the rupadhatu on the walls and balustrades of the four galleries. The first gallery is flanked by four series; the remaining three successively mounting galleries have only two series each.

The wall of the first gallery, over 3.5 m high, has two super-imposed series of reliefs, each consisting of 120 panels. The upper row relates the biography of the Buddha according to the Lalitavistara text. The lower row depicts his former lives as told in the jatakas and avadanas; these earlier incarnations before being born to become the historical Buddha are also narrated in the two super-imposed rows of reliefs on the balustrade.

The balustrade of the second gallery has another jataka and avadana series but the wall panels take a new theme. As there is only one row of them on the almost 3 m high wall, they are considerably larger than those on the wall of the first gallery. The 128 panel series deals with tireless wanderings of Sudhana in search of the Ultimate Truth, as told in the Gandavyu text.

The walls and balustrades of the third and fourth galleries are devoted to the futher wanderings of Sudhana, terminating with the attainment of the Highest Wisdom.

There are in all 1,460 panels. The following summary shows how the various series of reliefs are arranged:

Wall of hidden foot - Karmavibhangga - 160 panels.

First gallery
- main wall
:a) Lalitavistara - 120 panels.
:b) Jataka/Avadana - l20 panels.
- balustrade
:a) Jataka/Avadana - 372 panels.
:b) Jataka/Avadana - 128 panels.

Second gallery
- main wall : Gandavyuha - 128 panels.
- balustrade : Jatakai Avadana 100 panels

Third gallery
- main wall : Gandavyuha - 88 panels.
- balustrade : Gandavyuha - 88 panels.

Fourth gallery
- main wall : Gandavyuha - 84 panels.
- balustrade : Gandavyuha - 72 panels Total: 1,460 panels.

The narrative reliefs on the walls read from right to left, those on the balustrade from left to right. This was done for the purpose of the pradaksina, i.e. the ritual circumambulation which the pilgrim makes, moving in a clockwise direction and keeping the sanctuary to his right.

The narrative starts at the left and ends at the right of the eastern stairway, confirming that this stairway is the real entrance to the monument.

source www.travel-indonesia.com

Yogyakarta

Lying in the shadow of the aptly named "Fire Mountain", (2914 meter-high active volcano, Mt. Merapi), is the seat of the once mighty Javanese Empire of Mataram, Ngayogyakarto Hadiningrat. Yogyakarta (Yogya) came into being in 1755, when a land dispute split the power of Mataram into the Sultanates of Yogyakarta and Surakarta (Solo). Prince Mangkubumi built Kraton of Yogyakarta and created one of the most powerful Javanese states ever. The Kraton is still the hub of Yogyakarta's traditional life and despite the advances of the 20th century, it still radiates the spirit of refinement, which has been the hallmark of its art and people for centuries.

Yogyakarta is one of the supreme cultural centers of Java. Full Gamelan orchestras keep alive the rhythms the past, classical Javanese dances entrance with visions of beauty and poise, shadows come to life in the stories of the wayang kulit and a myriad of traditional visual art forms keep locals and visitors alike spellbound. Yogya has an extraordinary life hire and charm which seldom fails to captivate.

Contemporary art has also grown in the fertile soil of Yogyakarta's sophisticated cultural society ASRI, the Academy of Fine Arts, is the center of arts in the region and Yogyakarta has given its name to an important school of modern painting in Indonesia, best illustrated by the removal by the renowned impressionist the late Affandi.

The province is one of the most densely populated areas of Indonesia. It stretches from the slopes of mighty Mount Merapi iii the north to the wave-swept beaches of the powerful Indian Ocean to the south.


Other places of interest:


Ngayogyakarta Hadiningarat Palace

The palace court with its grand and elegant Javanese architecture lies in the center of the city between the Winongo and Code Rivers. The palace grounds, courtyards arid buildings stretch from north to south, inline with Mount Merapi. One passes through the palace meeting hall, the Pagelaran, where formal meetings of palace officials are held, to the Manguntur Tangkil hall where the Sultan holds audience.

The palace today retains the atmosphere of a bygone era through the installations of life-size wedding and palace meeting dioramas, traditional Javanese gamelan orchestras, antiques and heirlooms that adorn the royal buildings.


Water Castle

Just west of the kraton, are the ruins, pools, arches and underground passages of the former pleasure gardens, the Water Castle. Built in 1758 by Sultan Hamengkubuwono I, the central courtyard 'with the nymph-baths has been restored. The Water Castle is located in the old part of the city within walking distance from the Bird Market. A number of batik workshops line the avenue leading to the pleasure garden's entrance.


Imogiri

Imogiri, the official cemetery of the royal descendents from Yogyakarta and Surakarta, is about 17 kms southeast of Yogyakarta and easily accessible by the bus or car. The tombs lie within three main courtyards perched on a hilltop.

Entry into the smaller courtyards housing the tombs of thc princes is allowed only by visitor's wearing traditional, Javanese dress, which can be hired on the spot for a modest fee. (Monday 09.00-12.00 and Friday 13.00. 16.00) The cemetery is closed during the Moslem month of Ramadhan.


Prambanan Temple

This magnificent Hindu temple derives it name from the village where it is located, Seventeen kilometers east of Yogyakarta. Locally known as the Loro Jongrang Temple, or the Temple of the Slender Virgin, it is the most magnificent and beautiful Hindu temple in Indonesia. Prambanan is believed to have been built by King Balitung Maha Sambu in the middle of the ninth century. Its parapets are adorned with has-relief depicting the famous Ramayana story. It has eight shrines; the three main ones are dedicated to Shiva, Visnhu and Brahma. The main temple of Shiva rises to a height of 130 feet and houses the magnificent statue of Shiva's consort, Durga. The R.amayana ballet is performed on open-air stage during time full moon in the months from May to October.


Kalasan Temple

This unique Buddhist temple is located some 16 km. east of Yogyakarta, on the south side of the main road between Yogyakarta and Solo. It was built in honor of the marriage between king Pancapana of the Sanjaya Dynasty and a Princess of the Cailendra Dynasty, Dyah Pramudya Wardhani. It is elaborately ornate, with finely carved relief's preserved with "vajralepa" from the sap of a local tree.


Sari Temple

600 m. Northeast of time Kalasan temple sits the slender and beautiful Sari Temple, formerly a Buddhist sanctuary (Vihara) where Buddhist priests used to live meditate and teach their followers.


The Struggle for Independence Museum

Located on Jalan Colonel Sugiyoao in Yogya, the museum features relief's depicting the history of the struggle for independence and a collection of historic articles from that time.


Yogya Kembali Monument

At Yogyakarta's northern ringroad is the Monumen Yogya Kembali, established to commemorate Yogyakarta as the capital of the Republic of Indonesia in 1949. The monument has three floors. The first floor holds a museum, a library, an auditorium and cafeteria. On the second floors are 10 dioramas depicting the highlights of the struggle to recapture Yogyakarta from the occupation of the Dutch Armed Forces. On the balustrade is 40 relief depicting the history of the Indonesian people's struggle for independence.


Museum Sonobudoyo

This museum, founded in November 1935 and designed by the Dutch architect Kersten, is built in the traditional Javanese style of architecture. On exhibit are weapons, leather and wooden puppets of wayang theatre, masks, statues, textiles, curios and old Javanese gamelan Instruments. The museum is situated on the northern side of the city's main square in front of the Sultan's Palace. Open everyday except Mondays


Kotagede

Kotagede, a picturesque town about five kilometres southeast of Yogyakarta, was once the seat of the mighty Mataram empire. Since the 1930s Kotagede has become famous as the center of the Yogya silver work Industry. Kotagede is easily reached by four wheeled horse-drawn cart, taxi, bus, or car. There are a number of workshops where visitors are welcome to watch the famous silversmiths at work.


Affandi Museum

Set in a lush garden off the main road between the airport and the city stands the Affandi Museum. Affandi was Indonesia's foremost impressionist painter who built a private museum for his own paintings and of those of his daughter Kartika.


Kasongan

Southwest of Yogyakarta lies the village of Kasongan, known throughout Indonesia for its artistic pottery and earthenware.


Batik Research Center

Situated on the eastern outskirts of the city, the Batik Research Center has an Interesting permanent exhibition of batiks in classic and modern designs. Both the hand-drawn and hand stamped batik processes can be seen here.


Parang Tritis Reach

A popular seaside resort 27 Inns south of Yogyakarta on the Indian Ocean, Parang Tritis is famous In Javanese mythology as the home of the Goddess of the South Seas, who was married to Panembahan Senopati, founder of the Mataram Kingdom. Every year the sultans of Yogyakarta make special offerings to her in a beachside ceremony called "Labuhan".


Kaliurang

A pleasant escape from the city, this resort on the slopes of Mt. Merapi is surrounded by enchanting countryside. The "Telogo Muncar" waterfall and charming bungalows for rent make this a perfect place to 'get away from it all' while traveling.

source www.travel-indonesia.com

East Java

The Majapahit dynasts based in and around East Java, began the foundations of an empire that was to dominate the entire Indonesian archipelago, the Malay Peninsula and part of the Philippines for hundreds of years. This was the beginning of profitable trade relations with China, Cambodia, Siam, Burma and Vietnam. As power in Central Java declined in the 10th century, powerful kingdoms rose in East Java to fill the power vacuum. During the reign of King Erlangga both East Java and Bali enjoyed lucrative trade with the surrounding islands, and an artistic and intellectual renaissance. Parts of the Mahabarata epic were translated and re-interpreted to conform to an East Javanese philosophy and view of life, and it was from this era that East Java inherited much of its temple art.

Today the open-air amphitheater at Pandaan performances tells some of the stories of this glorious past, set against an impressive back drop of distant volcanoes, capturing the spirit of the province's culture and scenery. East Java's claim to fame in modern history is its vanguard role in the struggle for independence against Colonial forces in 1945.

Little of the Majapahit Empire's former glory still stands East Java Nevertheless, East Java has a variety of attractions, ranging from temple sites to unspoiled beaches, stunning volcanoes, extraordinary highland lakes, resplendent marine parks and fantastic wildlife reserves. Magnificent mountain scenery includes the crater and Legendary sea of sand at Mount Bromo, the "sulphur mountain" of Welirang and the rugged Ijen Plateau. The island of Madura, famous for its bull races, is also part of the province and has its own traditions, culture and language.

The provincial capital, Surabaya is second in size, population, and commerce only to Jakarta. It is also the most industrialized province in the nation with a strong economy based on agriculture, (coffee, mangoes, and apples), fisheries and oil.

The province is efficiently connected to the rest of Java by good roads regular trains, and air services between Surabaya and other major cities in the country including Denpasar on Bali, which is only half an hour' flight away.



Other places of interest:


Surabaya

A booming city of over 3million people, Surabaya offers many good hotels, shopping centers and plentiful sources of entertainment. Its well-stocked zoological garden includes several species of Indonesia fauna: orang utans, komodo dragons and collection of nocturnal animals. Kalimas is an old traditional harbour for the world famous Bugis schooners, which can still be seen, in all their former glory. Across the Madura Strait, half an hour by ferry from Surabaya is the Island of Madura, famous for its unique bull races.


Trowulan - Pandaan - Tretes

Trowulan village and the surrounding area are believed to be the site of the ancient capital of Majapahit. Archaeological excavations in the area have recovered many terracotta ornaments, statues, pottery and stone carvings which are displayed at the Trowulan Museum. The map in the museum is a guide to nearby sites of historical interest.

The Candra Wilwatika open-air theatre in Pandaan, 45 km south of Surabaya presents classical East Javancse ballet performances on each full moon night from June to November. The performances are based either on the Ramayana Stories or East Java's legends and folklore. The backdrop of Mt. Pananggungan makes the performances an enchanting experience. Ten km from Chandra Wilwatika is Tretes, one of the most beautiful mountain resorts of East Java.


Malang

Ninety km south of Surabaya lies Malang, one of the most attractive hill towns on Java. A strong sense of civic pride is evident from the well - maintained and elaborately painted becaks, the groomed main square, and clean buildings and streets. The cool climate is a welcome respite from Surabaya. Twenty km from Malang on the southern flank of Mt.Arjuna, are Selecta and Songgoritti popular bill resorts with hot springs nearby Batu is famous for its apples and flowers. Sports facilities at Selecta include horseriding, swimming, and tennis.


Purwodadi Botanical Garden

Founded in 1941 for the study of plants growing under relatively dry conditions, the Purwodadi Gardens lie about 30 kms northeast of Malang, just off the Surabaya.Malang main road. They cover an area of about 85 ha (212 acres).


Mount Kawi Fortune hunting

This sage's grave on Mt. Kawi is a famous pilgrimage site for those who seek to increase their worldly blessings. Possessing an intensely Javanese atmosphere, with frequent wayang and gamelan performances, the grave itself is built on a hilltop. On both sides of the long stairway leading to the top is an assortment of sacred springs, Chinese houses of worship, flower and souvenir stalls and other interesting sights.


Mount Bromo

Many local and foreign travelers make the trek for the mystical experience of watching the sun rise from the crest of the Promo volcano. A pony ride from the village of Ngadisari takes you over a sea of sand to the foot of the volcano. Ascend die 50 steps to reach the rim. On the vast expanse of sands, formerly a caldera, there are two volcanoes: the extinct Batok, which is a perfect cone and Bromo. Volcanic sulphur fumes and smoke still emanate from the depths, and when the God of Bromo begins to rumble, the surrounding population quickly bring their offerings. The annual offering ceremony of Kasada is held on the 14th day of Kasada, the twelfth month in the Tenggerese calendar year. It is a dazzling event where villagers from the surrounding areas bring their humble offerings to the holy volcano.


Baluran National Park/Wildlife Reserve

Located on the tip of East Java, just off the Surabaya- Banyuwangi mainroad, is dry countryside of open forests and scrubland, bordered by marshes, swampy groves and white sand beaches. A landrover or jeep is needed to traverse these rugged, grassy plains. A perfect place to photograph banteng wild ox, deer and birds in their natural habitat.


Kaliklatak

A privately owned plantation 450-750 m above sea level on the slopes of Mt. Merapi, Kahklatak covers a 2.500 acres of land producing coffee, rubber, cocoa and spices. Tour the plantation to sec the entire process, from cultivation to harvest and processing for export.


Sadengan

An important wildlife reserve located in the forest of "Hutan Purwo", 81 km to the south of Banyuwangi. Home to a herd of 700 wild buffaloes and many other species of wild animals, which can be observed from the viewing tower.


Sukamade Turtle Beach

78 km south of Banyuwangi, the beach is known for its deep turquoise waters and 250 kg sea turtles which come to lay their eggs here.


Meru Betiri Reserve

Here at the southeastern tip of the province is where the last of the Javanese tigers sought refuge. A hundred and fifty years ago the Javanese tiger inhabited most of Java and was even considered a nuisance in some populated areas.During the late 1800s and early 1900s was hunted mercilessly and its habitat destroyed by plantation builders. By the beginning of the Second World War it survived only in the most remote mountains and forests, and today the last four or five live on the brink of extinction. The government and the World Wildlife Fund have mounted a determined effort to save the tigers and their environment. Meru Beteri is not simply a tiger reserve. Wildlife of all kinds thrives here, the black panthers, leopards and sea turtles.


Temples

Between Surabaya and Malang is the town of Singosari, where remnants of the 13th century Singosari Kingdom include a temple and two gigantic guardian statues, the main gateway to the capital of the kingdom. Jago temple dates back to 1268, and is one of the most enchanting temples in East Java. Scenes from folktales and the Mahabarata epic decorate the side panels. Kidal temple was completed in 1 260 to honor one of the kings, and is a gem of Singosari temple art.

Located 120-km south west of Malang and 11 km North of Blitar, is the well -preserved Penatratan temple in the Singosari- Majapahit, dating from the mid fourteenth century.

The temple terraces are decorated with Ramayana bas reliefs.


Ponorogo

Ponorogo is 200 km. Southwest of Surabava on the main highway to Central Java. The Festival Reyog, held here on the 17th of August each year, highlights the area'straditional drama and dance. The unusual batik and basketry of this region are also well known.

source www.travel-indonesia.com